The Good Mother: Basilica Notre-Dame de la Garde of Marseille, France

The Upper Chapel of Marseille’s Notre-Dame de la Garde.

A trip to Marseille just doesn’t feel complete without visiting Notre-Dame de la Garde. The stunning striped basilica stands watch from atop the city’s highest natural point, offering breathtaking views of the metropolis and the sea. Almost every time I visit I find myself riding up the hill to pay homage. Maybe it’s the fact that no matter where one wanders in the city’s center, there she eventually is, beckoning. Maybe it’s because La Bonne Mère (the good mother)—as the locals affectionately refer to the basilica—is particularly beloved by voyagers. And I am nothing if not a voyager. Whatever the reason, I find it hard to resist her call.

The bell tower of Notre-Dame de la Garde is crowned by an 11.2 meter (37-feet) copper statue of the Virgin Mary holding baby Jesus, who appears to be waving at the Marsellais below.

No matter what kind of traveler you are, Notre-Dame de la Garde has something to offer you. Art lovers should be sure to look down so as not to miss the floor mosaics and then to look up at the mobiles made of ships and airplanes hanging from the ceiling of the main chapel. WWII buffs should walk around the outside of the building to find the bullet and shrapnel scars left over from the liberation of Marseille in August of 1944. And then there is always the option of visiting simply so that you can take in the full size and density of Marseille and its surrounding landscape from above.

You may have never heard of Notre-Dame de la Garde or perhaps you dismissed it while researching your trip because you’re not much of a church person. Understandable. But the first time you catch sight of its dramatic presence from the grand staircase of the train station, the Vieux Port, or la Corniche, you’ll understand why she is the most visited site in Marseille and feel compelled to join the pilgrimage.

The view of Notre-Dame de la Garde from Marseille’s Vieux Port.

Food Options: On my most recent visit, I was pleasantly surprised to discover that a food truck, Le Bon Air, had been set up on the basilica’s lower terrace to serve beverages and light food to visitors and locals alike. There was plenty of seating available on an early weekday evening. It’s the perfect place to have a glass—err, tumbler—of wine with an ocean view without paying rooftop bar prices. Open seasonally through the end of October. Check open hours before your visit.

How to get there: You can visit the basilica by taking the #60 bus from Métro Vieux Port, taking the scenic route via Le Petit Train Touristique, or walking up the hill like a true pilgrim.

Want to learn more about the city? Check out my Marseille itinerary.