Explorations on Foot: Antibes, a Small Gem on the French Riviera
Me standing above the Bay of Millionaires at Cap d’Antibes wearing a big straw hat and sunglasses.
Social media would have you believe that the French Riviera is all yachts, palatial villas of the rich and famous, and private beach clubs that cost €100 for entry. That world certainly exists, but what drew me to the region was not the emblems of wealth and exclusivity, but the easy access to nature it offers to visitors and locals alike.
It should therefore be no surprise that I think the best way to explore Antibes is via its trails and pedestrian paths. Perched on the coast between Nice and Cannes, the city is often overshadowed by its larger neighbors, but it’s worth a day or even a weekend trip. And if you like a quieter scene, you might even prefer to base yourself in Antibes while you explore the rest of the region.
Combining two hikes and a stroll along the ramparts, you can cover the area’s highlights in a day. (Not that there’s any reason to rush.) Note that there is at least one beach or cove at the beginning, end, or middle of each of these walks so if you want to add swimming to the itinerary, you have plenty of options—if you can stand the summer crowds.
Tour of Cap D’Antibes
A view of the cape and Mediterranean through a picture window built into a small tunnel along the trail.
While the interior of Cap d’Antibes is mostly closed to all but those who can afford a multimillion-dollar home, the coast and its endless Mediterranean views are open to the public and accessible via the Sentier du Littoral, a 5 km path that skirts the southernmost tip of the cape. Along the way, intersecting stone staircases carved into the rocky cliffs invite you to get closer to the water. If you go early enough you can get a cove all to yourself.
Starting Point: Plage de la Garoupe (Garoupe Beach); accessible via public transit, Envibus #2.
Need to Know: The first half of this hike is practically shadeless, so an early start, sunscreen, and/or a hat are a must in the summer. The trail is well-maintained and some effort has been made to prevent falls on the narrow sections, but it could be a challenge to navigate without sturdy shoes. There are a lot of steps and a bit of scrambling. Important to watch your footing. Check weather reports before heading out as you don’t want to walk the Cape when the waves and wind are high and risk getting swallowed by the sea.
Climb the Path to Calvary (Chemin du Calvaire)
Yes, you can drive here, but why not climb the stony path to the Garoupe chapel and lighthouse at the top of the hill like a good pilgrim? You’ll be rewarded with a panoramic view of the Cote d’Azur and some say as far as Italy and Corsica on really clear days. If you time your visit well, you can enjoy a drink or light lunch with your view at Le Bistrot du Curé (the Priest’s Bistro.)
Starting Point: At the end of Plage and Port de la Salis (Beach and Port de Salis); accessible via public transit, Envibus #14.
Need to Know: The route is only 1km, but it’s a moderate climb the entire way. The path is mostly shaded. Some sections might be closed to prevent forest fires during the summer.
Take a Stroll on the City’s Ramparts
Even if nature isn’t your thing, walking the 16th-century rampart walls that surround the Old Town is a must-do activity if you’re visiting Antibes. It’s the perfect place for people-watching, gazing out to sea, and trying not to stare too enviously at the picturesque townhomes that border the path. Don’t hesitate to take detours to get lost in Old Town, visit the Picasso Museum, or take a dip at Plage de la Gravette (the beach just outside the ramparts). On summer evenings, end your stroll with a drink at Le Bam Éphémère, the outdoor pop-up bar with 360 views of the Bay of Antibes next to the Nomad sculpture at the very end of the ramparts.
Starting Point: There are several entrances to the ramparts, but if you want to walk from one end to the other you can start at the Museum of Archaeology.
Other Useful Information
Getting to Antibes: Antibes is about 15 minutes from Cannes and 25 minutes from Nice via the TER train. The town is also a regular stop on the TGV from Paris if you’re coming from farther away.
Getting Around Antibes: The town has a pretty reliable bus system, but don’t depend on Google Maps for bus routes or schedules. Instead, you want to use Envibus for your research. They have apps you can download for routing and storing bus passes. The main transit center (Pole d’Echanges) is located just above the train station.
Best Time to Visit: Unless you really want to swim I’d suggest visiting in spring or autumn, when the temperatures are cooler and the crowds have dispersed. (You might still be able to take a dip as early as May.). Coastal hikes are most pleasant during the cooler months. The sweet spot might be early September. If a summer trip is your only option, plan to hike and swim early before the sun is too high and the beaches too crowded.
