Hiking the Riviera: An Easy Introduction to France’s Estérel
The rocky red coastline of France’s Estérel with the blue Mediterranean stretching beyond it as far as the eye can see. Photograph taken from above.
I am never happier or more grateful to be alive than when I’m hiking a scenic trail just strenuous enough to accelerate my heart rate, but not so much that it feels like torture, with Mother Nature rewarding me for my efforts at every clearing and switchback. Hiking up and around Cap Dramont—an easy and accessible introduction to France’s massif de l’Estérel—checks all the boxes. One-half of a longer loop hike, the marked round-trip between Port du Poussaï and Bélvèdere de la Batterie offers dramatic views of red volcanic rocks rising from the sea, the scent of pines mixed with other unidentifiable wild herbs and flowers, a gradual climb punctuated by a couple of big hills to put your lungs and legs to the test, and the occasional bench on which to rest and enjoy the view.
I couldn’t ask for much more.
About the Massif de L’Estérel: L’Estérel is a mountain range that runs along the western side of the French Riviera between Cannes & St. Tropez, dramatically breaking up the monotony of mesmerizing blue waters with its red rhyolite cliffs. Many of l’Estérel’s treasures are difficult to enjoy without a car, but Cap Dramont can be reached by train.
What else to see and do: Besides hiking the marked trail, there are at least two staircases that will lead you away from the main path and closer to the sea below. Kids and other scramblers will enjoy the obstacle course of red rocks where the stairs run out. During the warmer months, swimmers bring their suits to take a dip in one of the protected calanques. (The French word for “coves.”) Don’t expect a lifeguard. Don’t dive.
A person, barely visible, swims in a deep blue calanque at Cap Dramont, surrounded by red cliffs on three sides. Photograph taken from above.
In order to even reach the trailhead, you have to cross Plage du Débarquement, a large pebbled beach where 20,000 American troops landed on August 15th, 1944 as part of the Allied invasion of southern France that eventually resulted in the complete withdrawal of German forces from the South during WWII. Between the parking lot and the beach, there are a couple of interpretive signs and decorated monuments to mark the area’s historical significance. The beach now functions as a natural gathering spot for vacationing families from the nearby camping village, but it is free and open to the public and you can easily while a few hours sunbathing and gazing at the ocean.
The pebbled Plage du Débarquement with a sail boat slightly offshore.
Food Options: La Plage de L’île D’Or is a colorful, open-air restaurant with a full menu on the edge of the Plage du Débarquement. If your hike is timed right it can be a convenient place to stop before or after, but food service shuts down for much of the afternoon and restarts for dinner. Drinks are available all day. I really enjoyed the view from my table and my homemade cassis iced tea (thé glacé). There’s a smaller eatery to stop for a snack or refreshment at Port du Poussaï. That said, it’s always best to carry some food with you on the trail just in case businesses are closed or you can’t find anything that meets your dietary needs.
How to get there: Take a TER train to Le Dramont. If you’re not staying in Cannes or Saint-Raphaël your trip will likely include a layover in one of those towns. In my opinion, the hardest part of this hike is finding the trailhead. I’ll do my best to explain how below:
When you deboard the train, look for a downward staircase leading to a pedestrian underpass that runs below the adjacent road.
The underpass pours you out into a large parking lot. Continue through the lot and the woodsy park beyond it, toward the beach. This is the Plage du Débarquement.
When you’re halfway across the beach to the water, you’ll see the open-air restaurant on your left. Walk toward and then pass in front of it across a rocky beach that will lead you to Port du Poussaï.
You will find the official start of the trail on the opposite side of the small port.
This is a roundtrip trail so to get back to the train station you’ll just need to retrace your steps.
Given that not every train stops at Le Dramont, it’s best to save this adventure for a day when you don’t have to worry about time. Try not to have anything else important on your schedule in case you have to wait a while for your return train.
Important Links:
Book your train ticket to Le Dramont
